New Normal

I am writing to you on the bullet train from Tai’an, a “medium” city (5 million people) in between Shanghai and Beijing.  It plays host to a holy mountain, Taishan, for Daoism.  2 hours and 1500 ft later, I made it to the top.  It was 8 degrees Fahrenheit with -10 wind chill, which is a bit of a shock after the 40 degree weather that we had dealt with in Shanghai.  And that felt cold after the 50s and 60s of Hong Kong.  Hello winter!  Baptism by ice, I guess.

Ok, I have a lot to cover in this post.  First, I guess a Hong Kong wrap up is in order. On the Saturday before we left, Glen, the old program director in Hong Kong took our group to a beach in the wilder part of Hong Kong.  When he British took over Hong Kong, they set aside the majority of the land to remain undeveloped.  It certainly didn’t hurt that most of that land was so mountainous that it was very difficult to develop.  But lets just pretend for a moment that the British were forward thinking enough to preserve some natural land.  The only way to get to the beach was an hour and a half ferry ride and then hike through this undeveloped land over a mountain.  I spend most of the ride there at the very front of the boat (they let you do that in China).  The hike was very pretty, and seemed difficult at the time.  It was only in the 50s, so I wimped out and did not go swimming.  Instead I spent hours hiking around on some of the rocks, exploring and looking at tide pools.  That evening, most of us went to a Christmas party at the Vine, which was fun, but awkward, since we still didn’t know that many people.  But I would like to think that I am getting better at meeting people. I didn’t end up getting to bed until 2am

The next day, Heather, David, Jenny and I got up to catch a 7:30 ferry to Macau.  Macau is made up a peninsula and island off the southern coast of China.  Up until 1997 Macau was ruled by the Portuguese, similar to how Britain ruled Hong Kong.  When it was returned to China, the Macau government set up a similar political system as that of Hong Kong, where the local government has control of local affairs, while PRC controls foreign relations (with the exception of visa issues and a couple of other issues).  They have their own currency, but for the most part Hong Kong Dollars (HKD) are used, since it is a stronger currency.  Casinos and slot machines will sometimes refuse Macau money.  We saw some very pretty Portuguese architecture, cathedrals, and the ruins of St. Paul’s cathedral.  We walked through their history museum, which for some reason was free admission that day.  We were going to go up to the top of the highest building in Macau, but it was a foggy day, so the 120HKD that it would have cost was not worth it.  We also walked through the casinos. Macau has become the Las Vegas of the east, known for its extravagant casinos.  The Venetian is the largest casino in the world and has inside a full canal and fake city with a ceiling made to look like the sky.  It also has a disturbing lack of exits, resulting in us being lost in it for a good hour before we were finally able to exit through the Four Seasons.  Then we managed to stumble upon a Red Carpet event, The East Asian Film Festival.  And that is when we realized that some of the people we had past while trying to find our way out the Venetian were actually movie stars.  On this trip we seem to have a way of running into famous people.  We also walked through the City of Dreams and another one whose name I have forgotten.  Which is really bad, because I won 750HKD there in a slot machine.  Not bad for my first time gambling.

Our last week was pretty unexciting during the week.  We had a major paper and a test to study for.  Also, most of us were pretty exhausted from the above mentioned weekend.

Then we were off to Shanghai.  Contrary to what I told some people earlier, we took a plane to Shanghai.  Shanghai took a similar approach as Hong Kong in that they have razed all of their old buildings and built skyscrapers in the name of progress.  Unlike Hong Kong, or the rest of China for that matter, their skyscrapers are architecturally interesting.  My guess is that this is more of a result of western companies competing to build interesting structures in Shanghai, especially since most of the buildings are western hotels and businesses.  The smog level is better than it has been.  But it was bad enough that downtown buildings had a tendency to fade away into the background, as if they had never existed.  It can be a bit disconcerting.

We stayed in the dorm of East China Normal University in the international guest house.  Yes, that is the name, not a mistype.  A few of us are suspicious that the word “Normal” might have different connotations/ a completely different translation in Chinese.  It is a bit of a switch from the Hyatt.  For one thing, heating is considered to be an optional luxury in public spaces, despite the fact that it does not get above the 30s during the day.  Meaning our hall is always freezing.  Meaning most restaurants have little to no heating.  Meaning bathrooms (including our own) never have heating.  And the windows are usually open.  Fun fun!  Our bathroom is the size of an airplane bathroom, plus shower.  Also, I think our room was bugged.  I was complaining about the lack of heat, then the next day I found our room window wide open.  Maybe it was a coincidence.  Maybe it was spite.  I guess I will never know…

But I am grateful nonetheless.  I was told later by Benji (see below) that the Chinese dorms do not have showers.  They have to walk to a separate bath house.  Their rooms are also a lot smaller and more crowded.  And it is nicer than India.  It is just a shock after the Hyatt.  But this should be normal to me now.

Also, my body has finally accepted that traveling is the new normal.  I have not gotten any travel related sicknesses in months. Knock on wood.

Being back on the road is a bit of a relief.  We now have more things to talk about than just each other.  Which I find a huge relief.  I have the firm belief that gossip was poisoning our group dynamic.

The first day we spent in the town of Suchou which is known for two very large Chinese gardens, both of which we had studied in class (the garden is an art form, after all).  Unlike western gardens, Chinese gardens attempt to recreate the universe in a little space.  Which means that you have to have a lot of rocks, to represent mountains.  And they can’t be just any rocks.  They should be elegant, slender, filled with holes that give it the illusion of lightness and transparency.  The rocks must be placed in a way that obscures parts of the garden from view, so that it must be explored and wandered through.  There must be a fair amount of water, and buildings to frame views of nature.  Plants are a bit of an afterthought, used as a filler.  Unless they are ponzai trees (Chinese bonsai).  Then they are valuable.

That evening, Heather and I met up with Benji, a mutual Kildahl friend who had spent the semester studying at East China Normal University. Anyways, Benji and his friend Jake (from Canada) took Chaia, Heather and I out to a little local place with amazing food.  Then we walked around Global Harbor, the biggest mall in Shanghai.  Then we went to a literal hole in the wall bar (as in, there was a wall, there was a hole, we walked in the hole, up a staircase and were there).  It was a really cute place, were, if you ask, they will give you a sharpie and you can write your name on their wall.  On our way back, we got street barbeque.

The next day (Christmas Eve) we spent the morning in the Shanghai Museum, most famous for its huge collection of bronzes.  Yes, it is a big deal.  Bronze vessels are right up there with Jade and landscape paintings are art forms that China is famous for.  The museum had those too, as well as a seal gallery (name stamps, not the animal), a currency gallery, a pottery/ ceramics gallery, furniture gallery, and an ethnic clothing gallery, including a garment of salmon skin.  Limited resources make people very creative.  There was also a visiting exhibition from Anatolia (Turkey).  We thought that was rather ironic.  Is does bring into sharp relief how lucky we are to be visiting all of the places that we are.  I wonder how many native Shanghaiese will have a chance to travel to that part of the world.

That afternoon we had free time to explore. I would have preferred to have a city tour.  But oh well.  Such is life.  I bought some leggings that I have been wearing under my jeans as an extra layer.  I also got to see Gao attempt to give David fashion advice.  It might have worked if the outfit that Gao had picked out had not cost over 100 USD.  Why is fashion so expensive?  Some other people went to the Hersey’s store.  Won’t lie, I kind of wish I had gone.  Oh well.   I really, really do not need more chocolate.

That evening we went out for a nice Christmas dinner.  We had turkey and Chinese food.  There is something slightly quaint about the idea that we had Chinese food on Christmas.  Not too different from life at home.  We sang some carols, much to the amusement of our guide, Peter.  After that some people went out clubbing.  I watched Eloise at Christmas Time and ate chocolate with Lisa, Clarissa and Sara.

The next morning I got up early and skyped with my parents, Omi, Ompa and Mike.  We then got together for a Christmas morning get together.  We were surprised by videos that our families had sent in.  I started crying.  That is about the most homesick I have been on this whole trip. 

We were given, from St. Olaf and Marty and Shana, with the help of Vivian and Sherry from Hong Kong Cultural Association, seals with our name on them!  We exchanged secret santa gifts.  I got (from Andrew) a set of five nice chopsticks and holders.  I gave Heather a Red Panda stuffed animal from Ocean Park and rewrote “Twas the Night Before Christmas” (I have attached it at the end of the post if you want to read it).  We ordered pizza for lunch.

That afternoon, a bunch of us went ice skating.  Ice rinks are a rare breed in Shanghai, and we had to take a taxi a 30 min drive away to find one of decent sized.  That evening Benji took Heather, Cassie and I out to dinner again at another local place.

We left our hotel at 5:30am the next day to catch the bullet train to Tai’an.  When we arrived, we got lunch, then climbed the mountain.  That evening, we skyped Sherry, as it was her birthday.  She was so surprised, that she started crying.  She is such a sweetheart. I was super tired, so I went to bed at 10 that night.

I was up at 6 am to skype with Grandma, Grandpa, Patti and Wendel.  After breakfast, we drove to Qufu, the “small” city (1 million people) that claims to be Confucius’s hometown.  We were led around by “Leo,” a 27^th generation descendent of Confucius himself.  We visited the temple of Confucius, and the mansion that was owned by Confucius and his decedents until the communist revolution, when the state took it over.  It was cool to say that we went, but the place really holds very little significance for me.  The architecture is very similar to most other ancient Chinese architecture, and I have never really been that fond of most of the man’s philosophy.  I get suspicious of philosophies that stress hierarchy and status quo above all.  I think that they make abuse of power a little too easy and socially acceptable in the name of peace.  I am all for peace, but unquestioning complacency seems dangerous.  Just look at the caste system in India.  But feel free to disagree with me.

And that takes me to the present moment.  Bullet trains are really cool.  We really should have them in the US. 

That’s it for now!

Andrea

Twas the night before Christmas, and outside the room

not a creature was stirring in the smoggy gloom

Clothes was thrown around the room without care

in hopes that housekeeping would not soon be there

The globalites were nestled all snug in their beds

while tiny mice cuddled them under the treads

And David in his Keens and Marty in his fanny pack

had just settled their heads for an all too short nap

But I could not sleep on this cold winter night

For here in Shanghai there were no friends in sight

We had left behind loved ones all around the world

And said many goodbyes as our trip had unfurled

When out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,

I sprang from the bed to see what was the matter.

Away to the window I flew like a flash,

Tore open the shutters and threw up the sash.

The moon on the breast of the new-fallen mist

Gave the lustre of mid-day to objects in the dist(ance).

When, what to my wondering eyes should appear,

But a miniature sleigh, and eight tiny reindeer.

With a little old driver, so lively and quick,

I knew in a moment it must be St Nick.

This gave me an idea, this jolly old saint

Who this very night would on the whole world wait

He would, that night, see all of the people I had met

To leave them their presents for them tomorrow to get

perhaps I could visit each one on Christmas Day

So I jumped in his sled and I stowed away

First onto Hong Kong the reindeer and sleigh flew

To see Sherry and Steph and the whole Vine church crew

But Sherry, too nice, would not receive my present

So while she was not looking on the table I left it

To the ECC the sleigh next landed

upon arrival a flowered wreath I was handed

We stayed for just for tea, and a Bollywood dance

then left with tearful goodbyes and a backward glance

Onwards we flew up the Anatolian coast

To visit once again our lovely Turkish hosts

With a little misdirection and a movie magic trick

we left behind presents and were off in a tic

And finally, in the land of rocks on rocks

I left Papa Ang a nicely wrapped up box

He was traveling the world like Indiana Jones

and teaching students about thousand year old bones.

The saint kindly returned me to my little dorm room

back to the cold weather and the dark misty gloom

But the memory of friends gave warmth to my heart

even though now we were all so far apart

He sprang to his sleigh, to his team gave a whistle,

And away they all flew like the down of a thistle.

But I heard him exclaim, ‘ere he drove out of sight,

"Happy Christmas to all, and to all a good-night!"